You asked me to keep in touch, and I just had to tell you about our three days in northern Cape Breton. This was far more than John and I and the kids expected. Here’s what happened. You can find more at www.northerncapebreton.com and when you come here next month I’ll bet you’ll be as impressed as we were.
Oh yes, Charlie says to tell you that “You’ve gotta smell a whale’s breath to believe it!”
(Whatever that means....)
RuthAnn
Day 1:
We met the staff of Sea Spray Outdoor Adventures in Cape North for the half day guided “Learn About Lobstering” bike tour we’d reserved. The route had us cycling along harbours and out to the ocean, and at each stop the guide described a different fishing technique used to catch not only lobsters, but other species as well. The kids learned loads, and we all enjoyed the easy pace and fresh air.
We bought lobster and oysters at the Hideaway Campground and Seafood Market, and then headed for Aspy Bay and John Cabot’s Landing Place. We ate our lunch on the picnic tables beachside and then took a long walk on the beach. (We were the only ones on the whole beach, but a seal followed us, just offshore!!!)
After our walk we headed for Bay St. Lawrence and our whale watching experience with Oshan Whale Tours. What a treat! We not only saw two species up whales up close, but since it was lobster season the skipper hauled a trap and showed the kids (and us ogling adults) how to remove lobsters and re-bait the trap.
After a chowder supper at the Bay St. Lawrence Community Center’s Tea Room we headed back to our cottage for a game of Scrabble and some well earned rest.
Day 2:
We treated ourselves to an early morning beach walk, and after breakfast headed to Eagle North for an hour’s kayak paddle. We explored the quiet harbour and were thrilled to see two bald eagles, but nothing prepared us for the momma moose and calf lying on the bank as we paddled by.
We feasted on fresh Dingwall mussels for lunch, and in the afternoon the skies opened up. We used the showers as an excuse to visit the North Highlands Museum and learned about the hardships faced by both early pioneers and shipwrecked sailors. (We also got to check our email.) We then took in Arts North, where over 24 Cape Breton artisans retail their exceptionally fine craftwork interpreting the Island environment. We were amazed by the variety: shorebirds and eagles on pottery, incredible driftwood whales, striking floral and scenic prints, seagrass baskets, intricate quilts, fat “fish cats” on floorcloths and the work of three wonderful jewelers...and all “local”! Since they ship world-wide, I filled some of my Christmas list early.
We walked across the road to T&R gifts to check out the local knitting and quilts, and for a pre-supper ice cream cone, and then drove to Neils Harbour for supper via the “Scenic Route”. After more seafood we took pictures in front of the lighthouse and then drove to the top of South Mountain to look for moose, but I think we were too noisy, so we headed home to the cottage and let the surf lull us to sleep.
Day 3:
Off to Meat Cove! We drove the (surprisingly good) dirt road to this isolated community, stopping first for a walk on the beach in Capstick. Again, we were alone on the beach. Upon arriving in Meat Cove we checked in at the Visitors’ Center for hiking info. We decided to “go for it” with a climb up Meat Cove Mountain for some photos. While the climb was steep, we all made it, although slowly, and found the view from the top to be more than worth the trouble. We whooped and waited for our echoes from up the valley, took our photos, lounged in the grass watching eagles overhead, and begrudged our next morning’s departure for home.
Upon our return to the village we took a late lunch at the Visitors’ Center, (lobster all around), and then, after checking our email at the Center and then driving to the “end of the road” we headed back...but not without stopping twice on the cliffside road to seach for whales. We saw three pods!!
Last stops of the afternoon were for more shopping, first at Tartans and Treasures, where the kids searched for the tartan of their maternal grandmother. They found it and now have one more piece of their heritage! We then moved to Country Crafts, just down the road, to look for fisherman’s sweaters.
After dinner we took in a Scottish Ceildh at “The Octogon” that we found on the local web site’s Festival and Events calendar, and one of the local musicians showed the kids how to finger a fiddle. A full moon provided light on the walk back to the cottage, and we counted four shooting stars.
A family vacation just can’t get better than this!
